Sunday, February 03, 2008

Thrill Ride

My two-hour trip from Medan to Seberaya was one of the most memorable of my life. When I arrived at the bus station, I was a little confused how the system worked. Do I buy a ticket? Do I have to wait in line? There just seemed to be a mass of people roaming about with no apparant order or purpose, but with a definite sense of jumpiness and anxiety. I soon found out why. The colorful buses showed up every half hour or so, and its important that you're not napping when they do. I was busy talking to a older man when the first one showed up. I finished my conversation politely and moved toward the bus, only to realize that it was already being swarmed by about 3 times more people than it could hold. I finally got to the door of the bus, only to realize it was far too packed full of humanity for me to squeeze my way inside. A self-appointed director asked if I wanted to ride on top of the bus. It sounded fun to me, but I declined when I realized what my parents would say if they knew I did. Despite my refusal, a good 10 or more young men climbed up on top to enjoy the ride from the second deck.

After another 30 minute wait, a new bus showed up. This time I was ready - but too polite. I let several old ladies go in front of me, only to have one of them later yell at me and push me out of the bus when I tried to get in. The scene was crazy. Well over 100 people were pushing and shoving to try and enter the same bus (that holds maybe 35 tops). Indonesians prefer to make their lines wide rather than long. One mother opened a bus window from the outside and started throwing her young kids in through the window so that they could save her a seat. People climbed over top of each other trying to get a seat. Being the confused American only led to scowls, not an empty seat. I retreated and waited til the next bus came along.

Fortunately the third bus was a charm. I was one of the last people on, and ended up sitting on my bag in the aisle, wedged between the two seats on either side. The curvy, narrow, and steep road up into the mountains was taken at full speed, and our bus often passed other cars on blind curves, only to barely miss the oncoming macro-sized truck that was screaming down the road. In Indonesia you don't need Worlds of Fun or 6-Flags for thrill-rides. Just take an 80 cent bus ride for 2 hours and you have all the thrills you need for a few days.

Saturday, February 02, 2008

Village Visit

Seberaya is a small village of 500 or so in the highlands of North Sumatera. It may not be big, but it's home for two of my roommates in Bandung. Javen was the first person from this village to ever graduate with a bachelor's degree from a state university, as well as the first to get a Master's degree. After New Years I had the chance to visit his younger brother, Eko, who had returned for the Christmas/Idul Adha/New Year's break. We spent 3 days hanging out and doing what people in Indonesian Batak Karo villages do... not much but sit around and talk. There is a coffee shop about every other house, and they're almost always occupied by men, both young and old. In the customs of this culture, the women do most all the work and the men sit around and talk about it. Good deal if you're a guy. Most of the families make their living by farming vegetables and oranges (see pictures below), along with scattered livestock. Javen and Eko's parents run a small health center, the only one in town, that services all kinds of medical ailments, including birthing, which costs a mere $45 per baby. The above picture is the one and only paved street in home, which doubles as a highway wandering along to the next village.


Monday, January 14, 2008

Camping Trip - Storm

Two days after Christmas I joined a group of Americans and Indonesians on a camping trip into the coolness of mountains. Rainy season isn't usually the wisest time to go camping, as we soon found out (see story below). But despite the bad weather that was pummeling East Java, we set out anyways. We found a small wooded area about 400 meters away from a small lakeside village. In the other direction we had this beautiful view of an expansive valley filled with carrots, cabbage, onions, and a village of local farmers. Our three-day, two-night camping trip was filled with fishing (we caught a grand total of 3 fish after about 3-4 hours), cooking (mainly rice and instant noodles), practicing archery, relaxing, and trying to keep dry.

The rain began when we showed up the first afternoon, and didn't stop until the next morning. We discovered a few leaks in our tents, but 3 out of the 4 at least held out a majority of the rain. On the second day we were refreshed by sunshine and a light breeze. It felt like a spring day in Kansas. But by 4:00 pm the skys were darkening, the rain began spitting down, and the wind started to blow a little harder. We all took shelter in tents, played guitar and cards, ate nuts, chatted, and relaxed to the sound of pattering raindrops on the tent rain-covers. By 5:00 pm the rain was picking up, as were the winds. By 6 pm the wind was howling through the trees, the rain was coming down in sheets, and our tents were threatening to collapse or fly away, depending on the style of tent. By 6:30 pm the winds were roaring. Trees were swaying back and forth, threatening to snap over under the force of the winds. At this time two of our fellow campers were literally scared to death, and so without telling anyone else, suddenly bolted from their tents and hightailed down the trail toward the village, seeking refuge in the a local prayer room. By 7:00 pm the winds ripping and roaring through the trees was deafening, reaching an conservative estimate of 80 mph. Rain pelted down without mercy. Tents stakes started pulling out of the ground. The decision was made to abandon camp and flee for our lives down to the nearby village to find shelter. I was actually grinning from ear to ear and reveling in the experience, and so volunteered to stay behind with my friend Mitch to guard our belongings and try to keep the tents from taking flight. We took shelter on the windless side of a large tree that appear that it wasn't too likely to snap over on top of us. The intensity of the storm only increased, and by about 7:45 the decision was made to hightail it out of there. Mitch, who plans to get married when he goes home from Indonesia, decided he'd rather not die first. We rapidly decended with one eye on the trail and another on the ominously swaying trees above us. On the way down the trail to the village we came across 6 large trees that had snapped off or uprooted and fallen over. This was apparently fiercier than the average storm faced by those trees, some of which were 50 years or more. Like true, hardcore campers we stayed the night at a small hotel, arising at 5:30am to return to the site of our destroyed campsite, were 3 out of 4 tents lay flattened, and equipment laid wind-blown and scattered across the ground. We gathered up our stuff, cleaned up the sight, and around noon headed home, still a little soaked but feeling a close-knit bond of having made it though a near-death experience to camp another day!

Friday, January 11, 2008

Floods

The day after Christmas hard rains pelted most of East Java, causing numerous landslides and wide-spread flooding. Its common for Indonesia's weather to reach its worst in late December and early January. The largest river in Madiun overflowed its banks, leaving the parts of the city under as deep as 6 feet of water. To get close to the action, my friends and I drove a couple motorcycles through the shallow parts and then waded in for a better look. The floods in Madiun resided after a few days, but in some parts of East Java the flooding continued for several weeks.

Thursday, January 10, 2008

Target Practice


Rifles and shotguns are outlawed in Indonesia. Therefore killing rats requires other weapons. In order to keep things clean and precise, my friends and I chose the blowgun as the weapon of choice. We honed our skills through target practice from several distances. The metal-tipped darts are actually capable of killing an adult rat, although with the blow-power and accuracy of a typical amateur American, only from a close distance. After several days of practicing, we had the opportunity to put our expertise to work when a rat was seen in the bedroom. After all our practice with the blow-gun, we realized that this rat was too small and too fast, so 4 friends cornered him and one of my friends stunned him with a brutal swat of a rolled-up newspaper, and then we finished him off with a few sharp blows to the head with a wood pole.

Celebrating Bahasa Indonesia

In early December my language school had an event to celebrate a year of language learning. Exciting. I functioned as the MC, beginning the evening with a story of a rat and connecting that to the importance of language learning. Maybe you don't see the connection. Honestly I just like telling stories about rats and cockroaches in Bahasa Indonesia. Most of those in the audience laughed, except for the poor students who arrived less than a week before our celebration. To entertain them as well, my friend and I later did a combination of skits in mime, a language that almost everyone can understand. This picture is with Pak Agus, the director of the language school.

Apology

Sorry for the absence of blog posts over the past month plus. In early December my laptop developed a freezing problem. Its not that it got to cold in Indonesia, but about every three minutes it would freeze up and have to be restarted. Its hard to post blogs with a computer that behaves like that. I took it into a computer shop to see if it could be fixed. Every few days I'd call and ask if it was fixed. Each time they said, "Well, not yet, but we're still optimistic it can be fixed." This continued for almost two weeks until they told me that all the problems were fixed, at the tune of about $40 (actually quite expensive in Indonesia). When I went to pick it up, I thought I'd start it up and see how it ran. Within 2 minutes it had frozen up again. So much for getting it fixed. I learned a lot about how much I use my laptop, but decided I didn't want to go too long without getting a new one. The day after receiving my new laptop, I left for a 16 trip, visiting the cities of Madiun, Sarangan, Surabaya, Medan, Berastagi, Seberaya and Singapore (just in case you wanted to get your SE Asia Atlas out and start looking up city names!) I just returned yesterday and over the next few weeks will try to post some pics and stories from my adventures. Enjoy!